Easy Boat Neck Crochet Top
Doli is a perfect summer boat neck crochet top that you’ll love wearing on hot and sunny days! As the name suggests, this type of crochet top features a wide boat neck opening that sits on the collarbone, making it a stylish and flattering piece of clothing.
In this post you will find detailed, size inclusive instructions for the sleeveless boat neck crochet top. It consists of the Lower Body of the top which is worked flat in rows, then joined to form a tube-like shape, and the Upper Body, worked first in rounds on top of the Lower Body, and then in rows for the front and back panels, joined at the shoulders.
The pattern uses several different crochet stitches, making this a perfect opportunity to learn some new ones, if you haven’t tried them before, such as: half double crochet in third loop (for the Lower Body), single and double crochet, spike single crochet and herringbone half double crochet

With its simple design and minimal shaping, the Doli Top is not only practical, but also pretty easy to make. If you’ve already started crocheting summer items, you should check out the Felicita Kimono cover up crochet pattern made with the similar DK yarn.
If you’d like to purchase an AD-free printable PDF crochet pattern, you can find it on Etsy and Ravelry.
Material you need to make your boat neck crochet top
You will find the instructions for two different color samples here – using two or three different colors.
Yarn: #3 light worsted / DK weight yarn / 14 WPI, 2 or 3 different colors.
I used Alize Cotton Gold, which is made of Cotton (55%) and Acrylic (45%). it comes in 100 g / 3.53 oz; 330m / 361 yds per skein. I find the cotton / acrylic blends are excellent for light garments and they are pleasant to wear.
You will need approximately 800 – 1600 m / 875 – 1750 yds Here’s the color scheme I used, but this pattern leaves so much room for your creativity when it comes to color combinations.
Sample1:
Colors
- MC – Turquoise 287
- C1 – Petrol 17
- C2 – Red 56

Sample 2:
Colors
- MC – Lime Yellow 668
- C3 – Gray Batik 2905

Here are some similar yarns that you can use as a substitute:
Cascade Yarns, Sarasota Rico Design, Creative Sport DK, Sirdar, Snuggly Replay DK, Lion Brand, Cotton Fetti Blend, Premier Yarns, Cotton Fair, Yarnart, Jeans
Hook: 4 mm (US G/6) or hook needed to obtain the gauge.
You will also need some stitch markers, scissors, tapestry needle, measuring tape and blocking mat (optional, but highly recommended).
Boat Neck Crochet Top Schematics

Doli Top Sizing

Pattern Notes
- If the top is made in 3 colors, the Lower Body is work with the main color (MC) and the second color (C1). The third color is used only in rounds 6 and 8 and the armhole borders. The instructions for the third color are given in parenthesis as (C2).
- If the top is made in 2 colors, the Lower Body is worked with the main color (MC) and the second color is used only in the Upper Body and the borders (C3).
- Lower Body of the top is worked flat in rows, then joined to form a tube-like shape.

- Upper Body is worked first in rounds on top of the Lower Body (in sides of hdc rows), and then in rows, in two separate panels (front and back), joined at the shoulders.
- Skip 4 (4, 4, 6, 6, 6, 6, 6, 6) sts between front and back panel on each side.
- Ch1 at the beginning of row / round does not count as a stitch.
- Ch3 at the beginning of row / round counts as dc.
- Turn your work at the end of each row / round.
- Border is worked at the end, around the armhole openings, neckline and bottom.
Crochet Abbreviations
The pattern is written using standard US crochet terminology.
ch – chain
sl st – slip stitch
sc – single crochet
sc FLO – single crochet front loop only
SP sc – spike single crochet
hdc in 3rd loop– half double crochet worked in 3rd loop only
Hhdc – herringbone half double crochet
dc – double crochet
dc2tog– double crochet 2 stitches together
st(s) – stitch(es)
yo – yarn over
RS – right side
C1 – contrasting color 1 (for the 1st sample only)
C2 – contrasting color 2 (for the 1st sample only)
C3 – contrasting color 3 (for the 2nd sample only)
WS – wrong side
MC – main color (for both samples)
( ) – additional explanation
[ ] – work as many times as directed
Special Stitches
Sc FLO – insert hook under the front loop only of indicated stitch (the loop closest to you, not under both loops), and pull up loop, yo and pull through both loops on hook.
Hdc in 3rd loop – yarn over and insert hook under the 3rd loop (it is the very first loop in front of you, often referred as a horizontal bar) of the hdc you are working into, yarn over and finish the stitch as you usually would, pulling through all 3 loops on hook.
Hhdc – yo, insert hook into next stitch and pull up a loop (3 loops on hook), pull first loop through the second (like when you make a slip stitch), yo and pull through two remaining loops on hook.
Dc2tog – (decrease stitch) work 2 dc as one stitch as follows: yo, insert hook in st, yo and pull up a loop, yo and pull through 2 loops. Yo, insert hook in next st, yo, pull up loop, yo, pull through 2 loops, yo, pull through all 3 loops.
SP sc – single crochet worked in the stitch from the previous row(s): insert hook in indicated stitch two rows below, pull up a loop to height of working row, yo, pull through both loops on hook.

PATTERN INSTRUCTIONS
Sizes XS (S, M, L, XL, 2XL, 3XL, 4XL, 5XL)
Lower Body (Single Color)
WITH MC
Ch 61 (61, 61, 61, 69, 69, 69, 69, 69)
Row 1: hdc in 2nd ch from hook, hdc in each ch across, turn – 60 (60, 60, 60, 68, 68, 68, 68, 68) sts
Row 2 – 112 (124, 140, 158, 174, 190, 206, 220, 236): ch1, hdc in 3rd loop in each st across, turn – 60 (60, 60, 60, 68, 68, 68, 68, 68) sts
Lower Body (2 colors) Color Scheme:

WITH C1
Rows 1 – 23 (26, 30, 34, 39, 42, 46, 50, 54
WITH MC
Rows 24 (27, 31, 35, 40, 43, 47, 51, 55) – 56 (62, 70, 79, 87, 95, 103, 110, 118)
WITH C1
Rows 57 (63, 71, 80, 88, 96, 104, 111, 119) – 79 (88, 100, 113, 126, 137, 149, 160, 172
WITH MC
Rows 80 (89, 101, 114, 127, 138, 150, 161, 173) – 112 (124, 140, 158, 174, 190, 206, 220, 236
At the end of your last hdc in 3rd loop row, turn and (matching the stitches from two rows) sl st to join to first hdc row made. Turn with seam on the inside of the work (this becomes the wrong side of the top).
Do not fasten off. Turn on the right side. Proceed to Upper Body.
Upper Body
Worked in rounds and rows
WITH MC
Rnd1: Ch1, work sc evenly spaced across the side rows of the Lower Body, sl st to join in 1st sc made, turn – 112 (128, 144, 160, 176, 192, 208, 224, 240) sts
Rnd 2: ch1, sc FLO in same st and in each st around, sl st to join in 1st sc made, turn – 112 (128, 144, 160, 176, 192, 208, 224, 240) sts
Rnd 3-5: ch1, sc in same st and in each st around, sl st to join in 1st sc made, turn – 112 (128, 144, 160, 176, 192, 208, 224, 240) sts
WITH C2 (3)
Rnd 6: ch1, [sc, SP sc] around, sl st to join in 1st sc made, turn – 112 (128, 144, 160, 176, 192, 208, 224, 240) sts
WITH MC
Rnd 7: ch1, sc in same st and in each st around, sl st to join in 1st sc made, turn – 112 (128, 144, 160, 176, 192, 208, 224, 240) sts
WITH C2 (3)
Rnd 8: ch1, sc in same st and in each st around, sl st to join in 1st sc made, turn – 112 (128, 144, 160, 176, 192, 208, 224, 240) sts
WITH MC
Rnd 9-12: ch1, Hhdc in same st and in each st around, sl st to join in 1st Hhdc made, turn – 112 (128, 144, 160, 176, 192, 208, 224, 240) sts
WITH C1
Rnd 13: ch1, sc in same st and in each st around, sl st to join in 1st sc made, turn – 112 (128, 144, 160, 176, 192, 208, 224, 240) sts
WITH MC
Rnd 14: ch3, dc in each st around, sl st to join in top of ch3, turn – 112 (128, 144, 160, 176, 192, 208, 224, 240) sts
At the end of Rnd 14 do not fasten off. Start working in rows for the Front Panel.
Note: If you are making the Lower Body in two colors, mark 4, (4, 4, 6, 6, 6, 6, 6, 6) middle sts above the C2 section on both sides of the piece. They will remain unworked for the armhole opening. Join yarn before 1st marked st and work your panel.

Front Panel
WITH MC
Row 1 (RS): Ch3, dc2tog, dc in next 46 (54, 62, 68, 76, 84, 92, 100, 108) sts, dc2tog, dc in next st, turn – 50 (58, 66, 72, 80, 88, 96, 104, 112) sts
Row 2 (WS): ch3, dc2tog, dc in next 44 (52, 60, 66, 74, 82, 90, 98, 106) sts, dc2tog over next 2 sts, dc in top of ch3, turn – 48 (56, 64, 70, 78, 86, 94, 102, 110) sts
Row 3: ch3, dc2tog twice, dc in next 38 (46, 54, 60, 68, 76, 84, 92, 100) sts, dc2tog twice, dc in top of ch3, turn – 44 (52, 60, 66, 74, 82, 90, 98, 106 sts
Row 4: ch3, dc2tog twice, dc in next 34 (42, 50, 56, 64, 72, 80, 88, 96) sts, dc2tog twice, dc in top of ch3, turn – 40 (48, 56, 62, 70, 78, 86, 94, 102) sts
Row 5: ch3, dc2tog twice, dc in next 30 (38, 46, 52, 60, 68, 76, 84, 92) sts, dc2tog twice, dc in top of ch3, turn – 36 (44, 52, 58, 66, 74, 82, 90, 98) sts
Row 6: ch3, dc2tog, dc in next 30 (38, 46, 52, 60, 68, 76, 84, 92) sts, dc2tog, dc in top of ch3, turn – 34 (42, 50, 56, 64, 72, 80, 88, 96) sts
Rows 7- 18 (18, 19, 20, 21, 21, 22, 23, 24): ch3, dc in each st across – 34 (42, 50, 56, 64, 72, 80, 88, 96) sts
Note: in the second sample, C3 is used starting from Row 8.
Fasten off.
Back Panel
Skip 4 (4, 4, 6, 6, 6, 6, 6, 6) sts of the Rnd 14 (for the armhole) from the Front Panel and join yarn at the next available st for the back.
WITH MC (C3)
Repeat Rows 1 – 18 (18, 19, 20, 21, 21, 22, 23, 24) of the Front Panel for the back. Do not fasten off.

Shoulder Seam
Continuing on Back Panel:
Row 19 (19, 20, 21, 22, 23, 24, 25, 26): ch3, dc in next 3 (3, 3, 4, 4, 5, 5, 5, 5) sts. Fasten off.
Join yarn at the 4th (4th, 4th, 5th, 5th, 6th, 6th, 6th, 6th) st at the opposite end of the same row. Ch3 and work dc in last 3 (3, 3, 4, 4, 5, 5, 5, 5) sts. Do not fasten of.
Turn the piece to the wrong side (front and back panel facing each other), align the stitches and sl st in the first 4 (4, 4, 5, 5, 6, 6, 6) sts to join. Fasten off.
Repeat on the other side for the last 4 (4, 4, 5, 5, 6, 6, 6) sts. Fasten off.

Edging
Armholes – the number of sc around the armholes depends on your tension. If the border starts to “curl” a bit, decrease the number of sts. I suggest placing 3 sc per 2 dc.
WITH MC and right side facing, join yarn at the bottom of the armhole.
Rnd1: ch1, sc evenly around, sl st to join in first sc made.
Rnd 2: ch1, sc in each st around, sl st to join in 1st sc made.
WITH C1 (C3)
Rnd 3: [sc in next st, SP sc in next st] around, sl st to 1st sc made.
WITH MC
Rnd 4: ch1, sc in each st around, sl st to join in 1st sc made.
WITH C2 (C3)
Rnd 5: ch1, sc in each st around, sl st to join in 1st sc made.
Fasten off. Repeat for the other armhole.
Bottom Border
WITH C2 (C3) and RS facing join yarn at the bottom.
Rnd1-2: ch1, sc evenly around, sl st to join in first sc made – 112 (128, 144, 160, 176, 192, 208, 224, 240) sts
Fasten off.
Neckline Border
WITH C2 (C3) and RS facing join yarn at the neckline opening and ch1. Sc evenly around, sl st to join in first sc made.
Fasten off.
FINISHING
Weave in all the ends and block the top.
Blocking
The blocking is always optional, but for me that’s like a cheery on top. It makes your piece look more professional and beautiful. It’s a simple and effective way to improve the look and quality of your finished project, and it’s something that every crocheter should consider doing.
How to wear your boat neck crochet top
This lightweight, casual boat neck crochet top is designed to keep you feeling cool and comfortable while you enjoy your day outside.
It’s a stylish and versatile garment that can be worn in various occasions. The boat neck adds a touch of sophistication while the lightweight yarn used makes it comfortable to wear in warmer weather. Whether worn with jeans, shorts or a skirt, this boat neck crochet top is sure to make a statement and become a favorite in your wardrobe.
Share your makes
I make every effort to publish the patterns as accurately as possible. Even though these patterns have been tested, there’s always a possibility for small errors to slip by. Please be assured that if any errors are found the pattern will be updated and you will automatically receive an email informing you of the update if purchased through Ravelry.
This pattern is for personal use only and cannot be changed, sold, distributed, or reproduced in any way. It is not to be used for educational purpose without written permission from Frankie Kate. You cannot sell or change the pattern but you are more than welcome to sell any of the items made from my patterns but PLEASE would you tag #FrankieKate or @frankie.kate_ when sharing your creations on Instagram or Facebook? So I can share them and celebrate with you!